Newfoundland Part 2

By Remy

After Bonavista and a self-guided puffin safari it was time to head for the Big Smoke of Newfoundland – St. John’s!

Photo credit to our new friend, Chris. We did see puffins ourselves, but it was in a driving rain and they flew by so fast or settled at such a long range that we couldn’t get our own photos. So you’ll just have to believe us.
Proving that it is cool to crochet, the Rock Vandal has posted guerrilla art like this all over Twillingate. As with many old fishing ports affected by the decline in the fisheries, there are many abandoned buildings falling slowly into disrepair, and there is an art movement afoot to beautify the neighbourhoods where this is happening.
We were tickled pink to have a close encounter with these caribou while out on a short hike not far from the town of Tickle Cove! Oddly, we still have not (and ultimately will not) see any moose during the entire length of our stay in Newfoundland.
Another fantastic boardwalk hike along the pond in Tickle Cove. More blueberries and the caribou sighting above more than made up for the windy, cool weather.
Yet another sea arch carved into the beautiful red stone of Tickle Cove.
One of our camping buddies during our stay at the Bonavista lighthouse. Initially we felt that were blessed with the rare opportunity to witness a couple of young foxes frolicking in the barren lands of the peninsula, but came to learn that they are quite tame around people as a result of all the tourism. Still, it was cool to be able to get this close!
Rémy and a root cellar! The town of Ellington is the self-proclaimed capital of such structures, which pre-dated modern refrigeration and many of which are still in use.

St John’s was to be a major administrative stop, topping up/dropping off various fluids, re-victualling and going for luxurious showers at a rec centre. We took in some of the sights of the oldest city in Canada, but quickly tired of the urban vibe. This has become a pattern for us – lots of excitement and anticipation, but then the reality of driving and parking and touring about a large city takes the shine off in very short order. We don’t visit many museums or other landmarks and prefer to be outside. Nature is our cathedral! Luckily, St. John’s has lots of potential for that in the area around Signal Hill, with high quality craft beer to fuel our ramblings. We spent our nights outside the city, including one at Cape Spear, the easternmost point in the Americas, which allowed us to catch the first sunrise of all. 

The post card-perfect village of Quidi Vidi on the edge of St. John’s. These fishing shacks are still in use by working fishermen, some of whom live in their shacks. We purchased some fresh cod from one such individual, who turned the Newfie charm on full blast when approached by Liz to buy some of his wares. He obviously had more than fish on proffer!
The BEST spot for a beer- ever! We learned the hard way that it is better to start the hike from the brewery, up Signal Hill and finish at the brewery than the way we did it, which required scaling the hill after filling up on IPA and fish and chips. They were some of the best of both that we have ever had, though.
One of the batteries that has protected the harbour of St. John’s for the past few centuries. This perspective also gives some idea of the elevation gain required to top Signal Hill from the water, a trip that we ended up doing numerous times.
Sunrise at Cape Spear, the easternmost point in all the Americas and consequently the first appearance of the sun. You really get the sense that you are on the edge of the world here

Published by tompkinsontheroad

Married mother of two awesome boys who is now living full time in a self converted Camper van and seeing more of the world. We gave up something super special to live our dream of living a free and simple life on the road exploring new places and taking joy in the discovery of the extraordinary

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