We are suffering some technical difficulties which are severely testing our patience and harshing our vibe. It’s also why we had to post Newfoundland in 3 different parts. If we can’t solve this issue then we may switch to a completely different format of staying in touch. For now, let’s get on with part 3!
Remember the earlier remarks about the weather? Hurricane Larry amplified things and forced us to flee the Avalon Peninsula before we were ready to consider it explored. We retired to Gambo where the only effect we felt was a night of rain. We had been receiving reports from Chris and Doug of pleasant weather in Cape Breton and decided it was time to head back to our ferry in Port aux Basques. We spent the 20th anniversary of 9/11 in Gander, which was a meaningful experience as it was one of the few places in the world that didn’t feel helpless in the days following the attack. We got off the track we had already beaten with a stay in King’s Point, which celebrates it status as one of the least-foggy places in Newfoundland (that tells you something else about the weather here).
By the time we boarded our return ferry to Nova Scotia we felt like veterans of Newfoundland. I know that is a bold statement, as we will always be “come from away” and have never experienced a winter here, but the place has gotten under our skin. Much like Haida Gwaii, which had a similar effect on us, Newfoundland is a truly wild place, and its people live very close to that. Even the souvenir shops reflect this, as they are full of goods like knitwear, hooked rugs, carved antlers and preserved local foods. It is totally authentic and usually produced by villagers local to where the shops are – no “Made in China” crap here! We ate much from the land and sea, and when you stand on the coast and watch the ocean, you are very aware that you are on the edge of the world here. We admire the resilience of the people that live here and appreciate their warm, friendly and helpful nature and sense of humour. We are glad we came, and hope that many of our friends and families will do the same!